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How I built my own walk in cooler by using the Coolbot system

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48 thoughts on “How To Build A Walk In Game Cooler

  1. David LeBlanc says:

    This is cool. I would use a line thermostat and have it turn the AC on and off through the power cord. In Mass we hunt in November and December but recently its been unseasonally warm here

  2. mrdeadcheck says:

    That’s the exact size I would like in my shed. After 4 years or so…are you still happy with the cooler? Anything you’d do different aside from using plywood on the inside? Did your AC unit hold up? Thanks in afvance

  3. Patrick Finnegan says:

    Hello sir thank you for the awesome video I didn't know that building a walk-in cooler was that simple and I appreciate your presentation. I would like to be able to build a not just a cooler but a actual walk-in freezer as well. Do you have any suggestions for that? Or would I just have to put two air conditioning units that are a more higher output to achieve the 30 degree mark? Here is my email if you have a minute to send me a quick message I would really appreciate that thank you.
    My name is Patrick

  4. Wedi Afom Alazar Tekie says:

    The problem with this application is if the atmosphere temperature drops below 55 deg.f you won’t be able to maintain the temperature in the cool box! If I were you I’ll install a fan cycle switch to turn off the condenser fan when the compressor head pressure drops below 180 psi.

  5. No Google says:

    What about humidity levels? Doesn't using the AC unit drop humidity levels? Can that be overcome? The cooling part is great, but low humidity will dry out your game and waste good meat. My understanding is you want to keep humidity above 60% and below 90%.

  6. Jim Albrecht says:

    Too bad we didn't get to see the inside temperature while it was cooling from the outside to see if it really did get to 36 degrees. I guess well have to take your word on it lol. I believe it will like you say. Just would've been a better ending video of you did lol.

  7. Oscar Chua says:

    Fooling the AC is incorrect. It is substituting another temp controller, with higher settings for cooling and a set setting for shutting down the AC compressor, for the original one. Neat mechanism.

  8. Nooneinparticular987 says:

    Pretty cool. I made a smaller cooler with a super-old Whirlpool refrigerator that someone was giving away to make room for a new unit. Refrigerators are basically tiny insulated rooms on wheels, and on most of the old freezer-on-top models, there's a cooling coil in the freezer, the fridge compartment is separated from the freezer with a styrofoam separator covered in rigid plastic, and then a thermostat and a fan. In a lot of old fridges you can simply pull out the separator and all of the shelving racks and door racks, remove the electronics for controlling temperature, and hotwire the black power wire to the red wire, and the refrigerator will run continuously. Then you drop in a temperature probe like the kind you can get from Inkbird for $40 to turn the fridge on when the temperature gets too high and cut it off when it reaches a cool temperature. To hang the animal, you can use heavy-gauge screw eyes up through the roof of the freezer and anchored into a couple of 2x4s across the top of the unit. Sometimes you can even get these old refrigerators for free if you offer to haul them away, then you're out about $50 for the temperature sensor and a bit of hardware. It's not quite as slick as your setup and clearly won't work for, say, an elk, but I've got a pretty big whitetail hanging in an 18 cubic foot fridge right now in my garage.

  9. Ed Smith says:

    Did the same about 10 years ago, mine is 6×6'x9' ceiling. LG12,000btu/Coolbot. I used white fiberglass sheets (Lowes) to finish the inside so I can hose it down. Tile on the floor with floor drain. Found an old cooler door on Craig's List. 4 eye bolts in the ceiling to hang halves/quarters. Small chain ratchet hoist (Harbor Freight) to lift up off a Rubbermaid cart we roll the carcass in on up to the eye bolt. Hog half can go 125lbs, beef quarter can go up to 200lbs, so you need to figure out HOW you're gonna handle them.

  10. 1 1 says:

    God Bless You…. I hope non profits / homeless shelters on a small budget see this video… this is what America is all about… watch out for the woke corrupt gov. officials telling you you need a permit! Great Video..! Home run..!

  11. T Clodfelter says:

    Looks gooder to me! LOL! I think between spray foaming your seams and corners of your frame work and using the metal foil tape everywhere…that SHOULD reduce the condensation QUITE a bit! How's it working so far?

  12. Wite Powa says:

    I simply routed the temp sensor outside and stuck it in the condenser coils. So the sensor is always having hot air blown across it but not too hot and the evap coil never freezes but i can only get the temp down to about 40℉ which if perfect as I have the setup for my bedroom. Cost $0!

  13. Alan Knight says:

    You didn't show the floor. Dead hanging deer drip blood. What did you do about that?
    I have seen some builds where a shower pan is installed. This would prevent blood from soaking into the floor and stinking. If it had a drain to outside you could rinse down the floor with some bleach. Would even be good in rinsing out the deer cavity.

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