In this video we share how to make your own refrigerator or cooler and maintain whatever temperature is desired. We can answer questions if it’s not explained throughly. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe for more how to and health related videos.

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36 thoughts on “How to build your own walk in refrigerator cooler with mostly common parts.

  1. terntiy says:

    also could you clearify about the hot wire from thermostat. Usually you have three wires going to the compressor, one is negative , other positive, and third one positive that comes from capacitor, just to start the compressor. please let me know which one of these you cut and cap and which side of it and where you join the wire from the thermostat. thanks

  2. Paul Jameson says:

    Hi, You could send the power going to the thermostat "control wire" to a contactor relay and then feed the phase (hot) through a single pole contactor. Then it wouldn't matter what size window cooler it was. The relay coil wont draw much current, just enough to pull in the contactor

  3. B Swanson says:

    Hey man I can't figure this out. I went out and bought a new LG 12k but that has a plug in face and control board.
    If I start at my compacitor do i wire this into the wire going from compacitor to my compressor? I tried wiring it into the wire coming off my control board going to my compacitor but that isn't working.
    Also both leads on my temp sensor is hot if you are wiring it into those on the video. Help please!

  4. Robert Nelson says:

    I have a 8000 btu a/c with a digital thermostat. I am confused about the wire to splice into. My capacitor has two terminals. One has the common wire hooked to it coming from the main power cord. This terminal also has two wires (one grew wire runs to the fan and the other (red) runs to the compressor). The other terminal has one wire (white) that also runs to the compressor. Is this the wires that I replace with the one coming from the new thermostat?

  5. Craig C says:

    From 18 minutes 30 secs into the video there is a lot of wind and the speech is hard to understand. Please re-type that section here so we can follow it, and include what would happen if the new thermostat lead was wired to the wrong wire!! Is there a difference between a 'digital control' and an old one with a turning knob? Thanks much

  6. Al Lavallee says:

    I used the 10 amp controller to turn a nite lite on and off and then ran the ac thermo coupler into the hood of the lite. When it turns on it fools the ac into thinking the room is warm and the compressor activates. At set point the lite goes out and compressor stops. 10 amp controller will run any size unit this way.

  7. Renaud Forest-Bérubé says:

    Hi, When i dismounted the original mechanical thermostat, there was 2 red wires attached to it, one that goes to the machine and the other is plugged in the button underneath that control the fan. I guess the one that goes to the compressor is attached to the last 20 gauge wire but what do I do with the loose one attach to the fan button?

  8. MADDOG 45 AUTO says:

    I really like your video it helps a lot lot less expensive than a coolbot I'm getting ready to build me one for hanging deer meat I have a GE 12000 BTU air conditioner with two thermostats on the coils could you help me out which one do I eliminate

  9. Rich Hagendorf says:

    Hi, I have a question. This may sound kind of stupid but I was wondering. Is all power for the air conditioner coming through the STC-1000? Are you basically making the original plug that came with the air superfluous? Do you use keep using the original plug? I was following along pretty good until you got to the part about actually attaching it to the air conditioner,

  10. Matt Schwartz says:

    Glad to see someone showing how to do it without buying the overpriced CoolBot. I'm doing this same way in an insulated room in my house to store vegetables at 50F. Thanks for the video. My room has been getting too humid and the AC runs too often for short duration. Since you emphasized getting the room completely sealed, I think I'll get some spray foam and foil tape and seal er up tight!

  11. Texmenistan says:

    0:35 way to many bent fins on the a/c 🤔 You need to straighten them out, to get better flow, so that your a/c unit works less.

    good planning with the screen on top. I've always wondered why window a/c units aren't better built, like with screens on the inlet vents. Also, they also need a large removable plug underneath them, like a 3" plug. behind the condenser, to clean out any debris, that accumulates behind it, because of the fan sucking in crap. I always clean the fins with a garden hose once a year.

  12. Bucmeister says:

    As it relates to bigger units drawing more amps and/or the use of a 220vac unit this setup could easily be used to drive a secondary contactor of the needed capacity. Much as a low amperage photocell can control a pile of lights by controlling the on/off cycle of high amperage contactors.

  13. Bruce Buchholtz says:

    I followed your instructions and while testing, everything worked fine. Once I installed the AC into the wall of the Walk-In, and did all my connections, the compressor started short cycling and the thermostat started flashing 8.8.8 I've disconnected everything, thinking this would reset the thermostat, however, regardless of how long I leave it disconnected, it still flashes 8.8.8 Any suggestions?

  14. Kusnezoff says:

    I am wondering about the stc 3008, 3018 and 3028. are there any differences or are they all pretty much the same thing? there is also the w3032 and others. are these also pretty much the same thing?

  15. Tony Belliveau says:

    I spliced into ac cord to help with to many wires will that work ok and I left power wire connected to old thermostat and just unhooked wire for cap and wired into new thermostat and u said u cut out old probe is that correct

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