HVACR ( Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning/Refrigeration) Commercial Refrigeration Training Videos/ Walk In Refrigerator Refrigerant Leak Repair Emergency Service Call (How To Fix A Refrigerant Leak For An AC/Refrigeration System) Refrigerant R134a Leak Repair For Walk In Refrigerator/Freezer/HVAC Training Videos/Online Air Conditioning/Refrigeration Training Course/Refrigeration Troubleshooting/Freon Leak Repair Step By Step/Brazing Copper Refrigerant Leak/Replacing Compressor Suction Service Valve/How To Bond Copper And Steel/How To Braze Copper To Steel/Connecting Copper To Steel

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Fieldpiece JL3KR4 HVACR Charge Kit (Digital Gauges/Probes)

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Fluke 902 FC HVAC True-RMS Clamp Meter

Milwaukee Cut 1 Dipped GLOVES L

Yellow Jacket 60613 Service ratchet Wrench

TurboTorch Kit X-4B (A/C & Refrigeration Brazing kit)

Diversitech Heat Resistant Cloth 18×18 (Flame Barrier Drop Cloth)

Spark Lighter W/5 Extra Flints For Lighting Torch

Big Blu Micro Leak Detector

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Walk-in refrigerators and freezers are very large, insulated, enclosed spaces used to store and/or display refrigerated or frozen food or other perishable goods. They are used primarily in the food service and food sales industry.
A Walk-in cooler is basically a large scale refrigerator – similar to what you have at home – except you can walk into this one! Every restaurant and fast food chain has a Walk-in cooler and it’s where they store all their refrigerated foods. Unlike a residential refrigerator though, a Walk-in cooler has a lot stronger refrigeration system that allows them to keep their food stored at optimal temperatures in order to meet certain FDA standards and to ensure that it passes local safety and food handling codes.

Businesses from a wide variety of market segments use Walk-in coolers from Floral Boutiques to Breweries to Medical Research Facilities. Walk-in boxes come in all shapes and sizes and depending on the business’s needs, a Walk-in box can come with a lot of unique add-ons and accessories such as thermometers and temperature alarms that monitor temperature inside the box. If a business needs more than just a Walk-in Cooler, they can order a Walk-in Freezer or a Walk-in Combo Box which features to sections inside the box, one cooler and one freezer section.

Walk-ins are constructed using panels. Walk-in Box panels easily lock into place via cam lock and can be installed right over most flooring’s (though you can purchase a Walk-in Box floor separately).

A typical Walk-in Box can range anywhere from thousands of dollars to tens of thousands of dollars depending on many factors such as size, horsepower of Refrigeration unit, add-ons, panel thickness, location (indoor and outdoor) etc.

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29 thoughts on “HVACR Service Call: Walk In Refrigerator Refrigerant Leak Repair (How To Fix A Refrigerant Leak)

  1. Mario Dalla Riva says:

    I’m thinking: those electrical wires gotta be addressed.
    JMT: I gotta address that electrical junction.
    💪🏼🤙🏼

    ?: Can you explain brazing vs soldering in your applications? I watch as a DIYer (all things). Grazie!

  2. Justintime631 says:

    Anytime you replace the rotor lock valve, you replace the gasket that came with it.
    You ALWAYS install a slight glass as well. You need to insure you have a full collom of liquid to the txv

  3. jim defilippis says:

    Do you run nitrogen while brazing with that type of brazing rod. I would be afraid of the flux getting inside of the system causing contamination. It looked like it worked well; first time I have seen that type of brazing rod used for steel to copper for HVACR work. It looks more like something the auto body trades would use. Is it possible to braze steel to steel tubing with that rod.

  4. Mauricio B says:

    I would’ve just kept the flares. Like Chris from hvacr videos say “ next time you do a repair you wouldn’t have to use the torches” I like using flares whenever I can. Less crap to take inside.

  5. shine says:

    👍🇺🇸💪❄ great vid. Any need for leak sealant on threads b4 connecting service valve to Compressor ? N did u have to change the oil since it was r12 n u put in 134a ?

  6. Jim Randolph says:

    Why don't you pump the system down it's got a receiver tank you don't need to reclaim the refrigerant leaks on the suction side you could have saved them a lot of time and money use your brain

  7. Off The Grid With Bert says:

    Personally I would have fitted a new liquid line sight glass as the system has a liquid receiver, and left as flare connections, makes future jobs a lot faster. I have not seen those flux coated rods here in Australia, usually I use a 45% rod and pre flux coat the joint.

  8. R Dale Evans says:

    Hi, Nice useful video for training. As an instructor and working in the field, Don’t worry about some of the criticism being received. If the Teflon gasket looks to be in decent shape, go with it and leave the extra gasket with the system. It is rare to see a system leak at the Roto-Lock gasket. Not installing a sight glass is a technicians choice. We have other methods like temperature, pressure, Subcooling and Superheat to ensure a proper charge. Not only that you can hear proper liquid head at the TXV. An experienced tech will get the charge correct. We deal with many emergencies and often don’t have a flare drier. Go with what you have. I would definitely go with a flare drier, If we are dealing with acid or water in the system and add a moisture indicator. I highly doubt these techs do everything by the book 100% of the time.

  9. William Fowler says:

    to weld to a roto lock you need the 45% silver to weld to the steel, taking out the sight glass is a rookie mistake, it is there to indicate when the system is fully charged, if he worked for me i would have fired him for not reinstalling the sight glass, also he did not have to replace the roto lock just the gasket

  10. roland girouard says:

    Wow first time using 56% Flux rods and already an instructor? I've been building these rooms since 93 I'm building a 12x10x8 freezer right now. Did you tighten that 2 edged nut on the stem? Usually some lock tight leak block on the stem cap will suffice . Don't directly touch anything with your leak detector it'll always beep. I would have replaced the filter dryer with another flared one and kept the sight glass. Good luck kid .

  11. tim says:

    Putting stuff like this on the internet invites praise and constructive criticism. You fixed the leak, installed a new drier and got it working so that's good…but….you should have fitted a sightglass, you should have used the new O ring, you should put fridge oil on flare connections, you could have pumped it down intead of pissing about with the recovery machine, subcooling is a meaningless measurement on systems with a receiver, your temp clamp on the suction line was right next to the compressor and if you sand the pipe work before you cut it, it's easier. Flared or brazed driers/sight glasses/solenoid valves/txv's is an ongoing debate, flares leak brazed joints don't, but flares are 'easier' to change….pro's and con's either way

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