trouble shoot a freezer condensing unit

Allied Refrigeration 440-823-5720
Cleveland, Ohio

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26 thoughts on “Service call on a Walk in Freezer on a school lunch facility

  1. Amir Raza says:

    Sir I like your video ,sir I have little confusion I worked in walk in fridge .I maintain cold room temperature 4to6 Celsius I checked suction pressure 30 psig that time cold room temperature was 5 Celsius .is it OK .this system use refrigent R22

  2. S P says:

    Nice Work Jim. I don't know you can answer this or not, But My walkin Freezer goes down to -30 degree, What could be the problem? If you close by, I love call you to work on this.

  3. Mikton2509 says:

    Hey Jim, Just wanted to say thank you. Several years ago I stumbled on your videos, they motivated me to push my career further than i thought possible. I am where I am today thanks to your videos. Miss seeing new videos. Hope you are doing well.
    Mike

  4. Los C says:

    I just want to thx all the tech's that make these n other videos to learn from…….please don't stop I'm in the field myself brand new n want n need any tips u guys have to offer n watch thxs again

  5. Paul Moffat says:

    The low voltage can be a concern, as the lower the voltage, the greater the amp draw, thus causing breaker trips. The compressor is a 230V unit, and NEC calls for +/-10% so, the minimum volts would be 230-23= 207volts. Operating at low volts will also wear out the contactor due to arcing and pitting. NEC 430.52 sets the max breaker size= 8.5×1.15(service factor)x2.50 = 24A (20 amp breaker OK) and the wire gauge is set by the breaker (20 A) as 12ga Copper.

  6. Schooloftech says:

    Why always fill on refrigerant without fixing the root cause? (LEAK) We arent allowed to do this in EU
    If low on gas, something has to be done about it asap. (both because of the law, and price on refigerant, ie R404a cost now 300USD per KG with tax.) i will if hard to find or out of time fill the system with spectroline when charging, then next time i come i can fix the leak.

  7. jim defilippis says:

    like your videos. I have a question on the run load amps. it seems kind of high, seen nameplate of 7.5 amps. wander if a crankcase pressure regulator would lower the amp draw on the hot pull down. seems like if the condenser get badly blocked the amp draw is going to be well over the 7.5 nameplate.
    would that be hard on compressor running at the high amperage and possibly causing acids to form. Thanks for your videos, very educational

  8. Abujamie says:

    Jim I think you’re my brother from another mother. I lay down like you do. I have the same knee pad, etc. It was like I was watching myself on a call.
    The reason why I’m commenting is because you made me feel like I’m not alone in my approach to systems. I always feel like someone else is doing it better but your diagnostics and follow through was great.
    Great job.

  9. JT H says:

    As your volts go down your amps will go up – so I'm gonna put the high amps on low voltage… another thing I have done in a pinch – when you find a bad contractor with three poles and one is bad – I have just moved the wires over to the unused contact … gets the customer up till u can get back with the new contractor if you dont have one.

  10. Jeff Hall says:

    Jim, you and I apparently do things in reverse directions. I always go to the source, until I get to the problem. I check for power first, no power, correct that first, if yes?, Then, is the condensing unit running. No, then I check for what causes the condensing unit to run, at the source. Is the contactor, pulled in? No. Check the source. Does it have power? No, then it is a control problem, if yes, then it is the contactor. If the contactor is pulled in, does the compressor have all phases of power, check the compressor windings, check the starting components. There is a different lesson in compressor diagnosis, you all ready know those procedures I believe, but that could take a week to explain fully. If no power at the contactor coil then it is one of three problems; the low pressure control, the high pressure control, or the time clock. Start at the common side of the contactor, hold one lead there, then "hop-scotch all the way with the other lead back to the time clock. When you find voltage, there is your problem. If there is a problem at the low pressure control, then, you can put on your gauges and check the system for proper pressures. In that case, it is no longer an electrical problem, but a refrigeration problem, which I know you can understand and diagnose well and quickly. 80% of refrigeration problems are electrical, not refrigeration. I was taught this method in the early 1980's, and I can still diagnose a system in normally under 15 minutes. Hopefully you may as well in the future. I don't randomly check systems, I use a tried and true method.

  11. MIDWAY STOP N SHOP says:

    i just recently had a compressor installed by a company but i have noticed both fans are not running together one side runs only . Did he fix it right upon asking he said the other one has limit switch it runs as needed but prior i remember they both used to runs simultaneously. I need to ask you if thats right what he said?

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