This was a service call on walk in freezer that wasn’t cooling. I found that the unit had a tripped head pressure controller and a condenser fan motor that was going bad, along with some loose electrical connections and a damaged contactor because of the loose connections.
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27 thoughts on “WALK IN FREEZER NOT WORKING

  1. Ranger Rick says:

    You guys think with the Condenser Fan Motor going out and the restricted condenser it caused more Resistance increasing amps on one of the 3 phase legs Making the weak point melt?

  2. H3R3T1C says:

    Whoever repaired that unit previously should be kicked out of the industry. Thanks to videos like this, I now follow every single repairman that comes into this house and I watch everything they do with an eagle-eye. If they don't like it, tough. I'm the customer, and I'm gonna make damn sure I'm getting my money's worth. Sucks to live in a world where you can't trust anyone to do their goddamn job anymore. It's almost like some of these guys want to get fired. Last time I had a repairman in my house, I caught him taking pictures of my computer. You simply cannot make this shit up. I leave the guy for 30 seconds and he starts taking pictures of the inside of my house.

    Let's just say he left without his phone. Then his manager called, and I told him why I smashed the guy's phone. He no longer has a job now, either. Fuck with my castle and you'll get the horns straight up your ass. I don't care who you are. You could be the Prime fucking Minister and it would make no difference to me. That repairman was goddamn lucky that it's still illegal to hobble people lol. I'd give him a limp to remember me by. Rage issues and shitty repairmen are a bad combination in my book lol.

  3. Wael Audi says:

    I have a question couldn’t you add a capacitor to the fan and that would’ve solved the problem with motor fan abd the contactor was still functioning could you have tightened wire and left old contactor

  4. John Ventshop says:

    Personally I can't stand those crimp on connectors. Even if you are going to a steel mating surface they introduce resistance. I helped someone I knew with a set of steam tables at a restaurant and the electricians used a finely stranded wire to the connection from the main power input box to the steam stable controller and used the crimp connectors. One leg failed on multiple tables and they made the cable so short that you couldn't fix it without replacing the section of cable. Instead of using crimp connectors I got some 1/4 inch copper and cut short pieces and crimped that down on the cable to make a solid connection then drilled a hole and used that to attach to the temp controller. Never had another issue with them after that. It's a lot more work doing it that way but if you are running a lot of power through a connection it may be the difference between having an issue or not.

    Also have to be careful using stranded wire in some of the lug style connectors, some of them will cut through the stranded wire but be fine with a solid wire. On those you can also do the same trick of just crimping on a piece of copper tubing and then slipping that into the lug so you don't damage the strands, otherwise they are supposed to be soldered to make a solid piece to crank down on.

  5. griff Hall says:

    Last week, Chilis location in liverpool NY.
    I had both motors bad and blades were spinning g within the hub.
    I had 1 fan motor and 1 blade on my truck.
    It was 8pm and about 72°f ambient.

    I just removed the bad motors and blades.
    Cold zone condensor fan motors require a run cap mounted on them/side.
    Blades are case ROTATION.

    Meier supply in Syracuse hooked me up Monday morning

  6. desert HVAC life says:

    Nice work bro 🧊💯 transferred over from residential/light commercial to low temp dept. at work we have quite afew walk in coolers/freezers as well as reach ins and open display coolers as well. Thus leading me to want to break the ice more on freezers etc. SUBSCRIBED 💪🏽👍🏽🛠

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